Monday, October 30, 2017

I've thought about this entry since the day I hiked the Black Mountain Crest Trail. I would have wrote it that night but I fell asleep with a piece of pizza in my hand only to be woke up by leg cramps before limping my way to bed.
The beginning of a long day. Hiking the access road to the Crest Trail.
The old bridge crossing Bolens Creek.
All smiles and 3000ft of climbing to Celo.

Nearly 24 hours earlier I was in Wise, Va celebrating a friend's birthday and hoping to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights. The lights never materialized but good times and storytelling did, and before I realized it the clock was past 11pm. With a two hour drive home and some last minute packing for my hike the next day, my eyes shut for good around 2:30am. In reality, I slept two and a half hours before my alarm went off which felt like thirty minutes. Surprisingly I felt good and shouldered my pack and tried to sneak out the door as quietly as I could for a date with the Crest Trail. 
The very first view of the rest of the crest trail from Celo Knob.
All those jagged peaks will be crossed.
Sallie on the spur trail of Celo.

With a quick stop at Bojangles in Erwin, I arrived at the Ingles in Burnsville right before Halley and I's meeting time of 7am. The hike itself was her brainchild and she had provided very few details other than our meeting time. Joining us on the hike would be her Uncle Kevin, who once spent an extended stay in a hospital bed following a car wreck thinking that walking again might not be possible. I found Halley in Ingles in the coffee line forming in front of the Starbucks kiosk and gathered me a few snacks for a long day on the mountain. In the parking lot Kevin had arrived and after some quick introductions we piled in Halley's car for a ride over to the trail head on Bolens Creek.
Near the summit of Celo Knob.
The cliff view from Celo.
Looking back at Celo Knob.

Parking is a serious issue off of Bolens Creek Road with no trespassing signs lining the roadway but there is a narrow gravel drive passing some houses that has room for two cars to squeeze far enough out of the way to park, luckily we were the first ones to arrive that morning. We took a few minutes to gather our gear and headed up the continuation of the forest road passing by a house before crossing over into the national forest. Bolens Creek was loud and flowing strong as we crossed a rotten moss covered bridge to find the trail marker for the Black Mountain Crest Trail simply labeled "Crest."
Somewhere on Wooly Ridge.
The view was spectacular.
We found a nice rest rock near Wooly Ridge.

The climbing from here is instant and strenuous. I was expecting a slower pace with Kevin but I was sadly mistaken as he took off up the old logging grade at what I would call a trot. I stayed on his heels as the trail hugged the creek up the valley lifting us in elevation, knowing that we would gain 3000ft in elevation over the first four miles I focused on keeping my eyes on the ground and not on the trail that continued to rise skyward. Halley lagged behind in the early going adjusting clothing and gear but caught us after a switchback that turned us away from the creek to take the lead. She stayed ahead until suddenly breaking into a dance of sorts screaming "bees!" My survival instinct kicked in and I blew past both Kevin and her running up the mountain until I felt I was safe. Halley should be thankful I think so much of her because her cries for help led me back to inspect her hair for more bees and I dug out my first aid kit to doctor her stings. Both her and Sallie (her dog) received multiple stings and I felt bad for them since we were so early in the hike. We continued on even though we were more leery of any holes we spotted in the trail.
On to the next peak.
Sallie leads the way.
Surreal scenery along our journey.

Through the trees I could tell we had gained some elevation as surrounding ridges were becoming visible and I seemed to fall into a zone of hiking that saw me stretch a lead out on both Halley and her uncle. I hiked alone agonizing over the leg shredding day ahead and already feeling the burn before reaching Celo Knob, our first 6000ft peak of the day.  I stepped out onto my first open view from the side of Celo to see the horizon stretching out before me. A quick scan out the ridge revealed a jagged wonderland of 6000ft peaks that would be my trail for the reminder of the day and I tossed my pack to the ground for some rest before settling into a snack. I laid back on the pack half sprawled in the trail to wait on Halley and Kevin. It was only a few minutes before a trio of red faced hikers joined me, when they finally caught their breath they noticed the jagged ridge line and trail leading in the same direction. One of them wheeled around to me, "we have to hike that?" I looked in that direction and said, "afraid so."
Looking back at Celo from a spur trail to yet another summit.
You could see all the way to the Linville Gorge.
Back to climbing...

A jingling collar announced the arrival of Sallie and then a few minutes later Halley and Kevin. We shared some time taking in the views before shouldering our packs and heading to our next peak but just a few feet later we spotted a small spur trail doubling back and straight up a set of sheer cliffs, I guessed it to be the summit of Celo so Sallie and I set off to find out for sure. We climbed for a short but steep distance to the high point where there wasn't a view but a tree adorned with a ribbon of orange tape gave away the summit. Hiking down to meet Halley, I noticed a secondary spur trail and found some wide open views from the cliff. I yelled for Halley to come check it out with us.
Cliff areas along the trail.
Kevin on top of one of the cliffs.

Back on the main trail Kevin was rested and it showed as he took off and left Halley in the dust. Meanwhile, Halley and I lagged behind taking pictures and enjoying views from Wooly Ridge. Rocky crags and pine trees dotted an open ridge that had far sweeping views the serenity of it all was short lived as Halley found another bee, this time with her toe. She jumped, cursed, and seemed to think the world was going to end but another swipe from the insect bite stick in my first aid kit suddenly she was cured. We made good timing hiking along the ridge and with it all being new to me, I was constantly looking for what was around the corner. Up and down the ridges my legs were feeling the burn but my heart was so happy. Halley had invited me to be a part of her and her uncle's day and we were knocking a huge hike off my bucket list. I drank my water freely knowing I could refill it at Deep Gap but I would come to find that I was mistaken.
Finally some rest! Somewhere near Deep Gap.
Showoff!
Best friends took over my hammock.

Several times during the hike was I convinced we were hiking into Deep Gap as the trail would drop suddenly for a few hundred feet but it always would climb up around another peak or cliff...sometimes narrowly passing terrible consequences if your footing would fail. Of course all of the wild dangerous areas were ideal for photo ops so we took our time working out the rocky range. Eventually we found the real Deep Gap and as I looked across the gap at the towering peak that is Potato Hill I couldn't help but feel some dread. I stayed ahead of Halley and Kevin reaching the camp sites in search of a side trail to resupply my water. I found nothing of interest so I waited on them to catch me and asked them if they knew where the trail was. Halley led me down an old forest road at the gap and we found a tiny pool of water that barely was flowing. It didn't look pretty but we had to use it or we wouldn't be hiking off the mountain. I used my Sawyer mini to drink from the pool but the taste was terrible. Halley had a Lifestraw bottle that she shared the water she had gathered with me and it helped get me rehydrated enough for the final few miles.
Fern covered rocks approaching Deep Gap.
Just outside of the real Deep Gap.
Winterstar summit.
Looking back at Celo Knob from Winterstar.

Just because I had water didn't make the climb out of Deep Gap any less painful. I really slowed my pace stopping frequently for rest as my body was feeling the lack of sleep and the strenuous day that still had around five miles remaining. Halley stayed nearby encouraging me and somewhat enjoying my struggles saying several times, "I've never seen you like this." As soon as I would catch up with her, she would take off again giggling at my huffing and puffing. Eventually I found familiar territory at the cliffs of Potato Hill since I had hiked from Mt. Mitchell to that point last year with Amy. Although it was nice to know we were getting closer to the end it was the thoughts of big time climbs over Big Tom, Cattail Peak, Balsam Cone, Mt. Craig, and Mt. Mitchell now loomed in my mind. The struggle was real and I hobbled along trying to keep pace with Halley and conserve water and one by one mountains began to click away.
And now for a series of climbs featuring Halley waiting on me. Potato Hill is exhibit A.
Still climbing....that smile is getting on my nerves.
I was thinking I need new friends.

There's something about a difficult hike that I love and even with the pain and exhaustion that I was experiencing I was still having a wonderful time and having a friend like Halley to share the trail with made it even more special. When we reached the top of Big Tom we paused for a break with Kevin and I could look back out the ridge to Celo Knob and the start of our roller coaster day. Something about that view brought such a peaceful feeling over me as I watched approaching clouds sweep over Celo and making it vanish as if it was never there. The gathering clouds also pumped a little motivation into my legs knowing if I wanted any views at Mt. Mitchell I would have to pick up the pace.
Every tough climb led to a good view.

Up we go again.
Kevin shows how it's done.

Back on the trail we moved along rather quickly since the major elevation changes were behind us. The trail still rolled up and down but none of it was extreme. Winding around the top of Mt. Craig clouds started to hang heavy and the view of Mt. Mitchell was fogged in at least for the moment. The final mile from Mt. Craig was agony. I was dehydrated and my legs wanted to keep locking up but every time I wanted to stop Halley was there to motivate me forward.
Fog starting to roll in on Big Tom.
The trees were wild looking and still alive.
In the pines where the sun don't ever shine.

Perhaps cruelest of all was as we popped out into the road just shy of the summit of Mt. Mitchell there was a large group of people grilling hamburgers and chugging ice cold Gatorade and I was hungry and thirsty. We climbed the stairs to level up with the visitor center and hit the ramp that curls around to the highest point East of the Mississippi. About halfway up the ramp Halley's brother greeted us on his way back down the mountain but turned to rejoin us on the final push up top. He was kind enough to drive up to shuttle us back to our cars in Burnsville. It was if the mountain itself was rewarding us for our efforts and the clouds began to break up revealing some nice afternoon color through the haze. Kevin was waiting as I stomped the marker at the top like a baseball player touching home plate. The four of us chatted and snapped some photos celebrating the completion of the crest trail.
On Mt. Craig.
Smile for a mile to go.
Mt. Mitchell with thick fog...would we have a view?

The ride down the mountain was over an hour and I could barely keep my eyes open I was so sleepy. We stopped at a gas station and I was able to get some caffeine and feel a little better. I got to ride up front with Halley's brother since my legs are so long and I enjoyed the conversation as we wound down the curvy highway 80 back to Burnsville. They decided to drop me off at my truck before retrieving Halley's car and we said our goodbyes in the Ingles parking lot before I turned my wheels toward home.
Near the final summit of our day the heavens opened up for fantastic views.
Halley is rewarded with the view of a lifetime.
The final picture on a fantastic day of conquering the Crest Trail.

Looking back on the hike it still ranks as the most strenuous trail day I've had. It could have had something to do with the sleep deprivation from the night before but the Crest Trail is not to be taken lightly. Calculating my GPS information from our day revealed why it was so difficult, over 5900ft in elevation gain and 13.2 miles which best my previous elevation gain record by nearly a thousand feet. As I mentioned earlier, the difficulty is only bad while you're on the hike but the feeling of pride and accomplishment afterwards lasts for much longer. Combine that with great people to share the moment with, it makes for a perfect day. Until next time, happy trails!